Both prior to my trip to Togo, and after my return, it became clear that the overwhelming majority of Americans I spoke to about the country, knew next to nothing about it, or were completely unaware of its existence. (In fact, many thought I was referencing a visit to Togos, the sandwich shop. You can imagine how quickly those conversations became both confusing and funny.)
Before traveling to Togo, I fell into the former camp, knowing only a few, basic facts about the country. What I knew before my trip, was that Togo was a French-speaking, West African nation bordering Ghana, and that in 2010, their national soccer team's bus was attacked as it traveled through Angola. The attack left three dead and nine injured.
Emmanuel Adebayor, the famous soccer player who was born in Togo, was part of the Togolese soccer delegation that experienced the ambush by the Angolan gunmen who sprayed the bus and its occupants with machine gun fire. Adebayor, who has also played for Manchester City, Arsenal, Tottenham Hotspur and Real Madrid, escaped unharmed, along with other soccer players.
Lake Togo Shore
In addition to those few facts that I already knew, what I learned about Togo just before, during and after my visit, was fascinating. I'll start with some background information and then share a brief history about the country.
Togo, is a small country that lies between Ghana and Benin, to the west and east respectively, and Burkina Faso to the north. Let me qualify my use of the adjective, "small." At its widest point, Togo is only 99 miles, making it the second narrowest country in the world, after Chile.
Togo was once part of what is known as the "Slave Coast," the coastal region, that between the 16th and 18th centuries, served as a European slave trading post. The first of the slave traders to arrive in Togo were the Portuguese, who came in the late 15th century, followed by the English, the French, the Spanish, the Dutch, the Swedes and the Danes.
City of Lomé
When the Germans arrived in 1884, they established a protectorate, which by 1905, became a German colony that they named Togoland. During the First World War, Togoland was invaded by the British and the French. In 1922, after the war ended, the League of Nations established a mandate assigning the western portion of Togoland to the British and the eastern part to the French.
The residents of British Togoland voted to join the British Crown Colony known as the Gold Coast. The Gold Coast achieved its independence from British colonial rule in 1957 and became, what is still known today as the Republic of Ghana.
Three years later, in 1960, Togoland achieved independence from France and became the independent nation of Togo, with its capital in Lomé. This explains why English is spoken in Ghana, whereas Togo remains a francophone country.
Lake Togo
The largest body of water in the country encompasses 64 square miles and is called Lake Togo, though it is technically a lagoon. It is also one of the few lagoons in the world where salt water intrusion occurs. (I'll share more about Lake Togo, which I crossed by boat, in a future post.)
Togo's population is currently estimated at 9.5 million, made up of about 30 ethnic groups. The largest of these is the Ewe, who immigrated from Nigeria.
Togo's capital and largest city is Lomé. It is located in the southwest corner of the country, right next to Ghana's Volta region. Lomé is the first, official Togolese city that you reach after crossing the Ghana-Togo border at Aflao. This particular border crossing is the only officially recognized customs point between the two countries.
Lomé
Entering Lomé
I entered Togo from Ghana via that very border crossing that lies at Togo's southernmost point on the Gulf of Guinea. I arrived in Togo after a lengthy, tiresome and unnerving, 90-minute, border crossing experience (though brief and tame compared to the three hours I was detained while crossing back from Togo into Ghana several days later).
Just as I entered Togo, warm, tropical rain started drizzling down. Even through the water droplets on the car window, I could appreciate the striking, blue waters of the Atlantic Ocean and the beautiful, Togo shoreline, dotted with swaying, palm trees. I quickly understood why this country's 32 miles of beaches are celebrated.
Hotel Pool
My home base while I was in Togo, was at a hotel in the capital city of Lomé. Though the hotel was beautiful, I spent very little time there, as I wanted to be out and about, exploring as much of the country as possible.
Steamed Red Snapper with Onions and Bell Pepper
That said, I made certain to enjoy a few meals at the hotel, which was known to serve delicious, local dishes like this one that the server recommended.
This fish is a local specialty sourced from the nearby, Atlantic Ocean in the Gulf of Guinea. The red snapper was baked and served with a spicy, tomato-based sauce, made with sautéed onions and peppers.
In some ways, the city of Lomé reminded me of home. There were well-maintained roads, lined with beautiful, mosaic murals, ...
Independence Monument
... and grand monuments, like this one celebrating Togo's independence from France. Unfortunately, it was under repair when I visited.
Togo's Sea Port
There was also an extremely busy port, reminiscent of the three largest ports in California (Los Angeles, Long Beach and Oakland), all of which I have resided near at some point.
While the country of Togo is at least seven times smaller than the state of California, its Lomé port is bustling. Not only does the Lomé port function as the country's principal seaport, it is also the transshipment hub for its landlocked neighbors of Burkina Faso, Mali and Niger.
Mango Tree
While I recognized similarities with the U.S., there were obviously far greater and more conspicuous differences that reminded me that I was quite far from home. One example is this gorgeous, mango tree that filled an entire courtyard.
Mangoes
Its branches were bending and dripping with fruit. We found a ripe mango and ate it on the spot, juice dripping from our hands and chins and yet, unbothered because nothing could distract from the sweetness of the fruit or the moment.
The streets were also alive with activity in a way I have not experienced in my country and many others. Whether here in Togo, or when I have visited countries including, but not limited to, Ethiopia, Ghana, India, and Mexico, I always sense an energy, spontaneity and an ordered chaos, that marks the urban streets.
Fruit and Vegetable Vendors in Lomé
As in those other countries, the streets of Lomé don't allow your senses a moments dormancy. Everywhere you look, you see vendors selling something, or other activity that captures your attention. Your ears take in the sounds of car horns, motorcycles, hawkers shouting for your attention, and music. Then there are the scents. Okay, so occasionally they aren't pleasant, but overall, there's the comforting smell of something cooking or grilling and the scent of the ocean.
Aného
Anéjo
This is not a phenomenon relegated to Lomé. I also noted this verve in the neighboring city of Anéjo, located about an hour west of Lomé, and just 12 or so minutes east of the Togo-Benin border. Anéjo is also located between the Atlantic Ocean and Lake Togo. With so much water surrounding it, it isn't surprising that the town's main industry today is fishing, followed by farming.
Anéjo was once the capital of both French and German Togoland, and was formerly known as both Anecho and Little Popo. Like Lomé, it too was once a slave port. It was when the town was still known as Little Popo, that the Portuguese arrived and began the slave trade. Subsequently, the countries mentioned at the beginning of this post started participating as well, turning Little Popo into one of the largest, slave trading centers in the Slave Coast.
Anéjo Beach
After slavery was abolished, the "Scramble for Africa" ensued. This was a period during which most of Africa was conquered and colonized by invading, European powers. That brings us back to the heartbreaking root of why Togo was under German, British and French rule post-slavery, as I described earlier in this post.
Anéjo Coast Where Lake Togo meets the Atlantic Ocean
Today, Togo is free from colonial rule, but it isn't truly free, as the country is under the dictatorship of their current ruler, Gnassingbé Eyadéma. In a 1963 coup, Eyadéma assassinated Sylvanus Olympio who had just become Togo's first, post-colonial president in 1960. After assassinating Olympio, Eyadéma established himself as dictator in 1967 and still occupies that position today.
On that heavy note, I am concluding this post, but my trip to Togo is not over. Next, I will take you across Lake Togo by boat, to the small town of Togoville, which lies on its shore. I will also tell you what I learned about Vodun or voodoo, a cultural and religious staple in the country of Togo.
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