Hilo Bay
During my most recent visit to the Big Island, I carved out time to take a road trip from Kona to the island's capital city of Hilo, via the north coast. Though Hilo has three times the population of Kona, it gets a fraction of the tourism; just one of the many reasons I decided to show it some love.
Because Hilo is located on the windward side of the Big Island, it receives copious amounts of rain, which creates a very lush and tropical environment. In fact, World Atlas has listed Hilo as the wettest city in the United States, followed by Sitka, Alaska.
Parks
Lili'uokalani Park and Gardens
To enjoy all the greenery that is a bi-product of the rain, visit any one of Hilo's parks.
One of my favorites is Lili'uoklani Park and Gardens which has the largest, authentic, Edo-style garden outside of Japan.
Monkeypod Tree
The first five acres of land for the park was donated by Queen Lili'uokalani in 1907. The garden opened 12 years later in 1919.
The lanterns, sculptures, bridges and gazebos in the park, date back as far as 1916 ...
... as do the enormous trees that may date back even further.
The park is appropriately located on Banyan Tree Lane where you will see large banyans lining the road. The tree above, is located in the center of the park, where it shows off its extensive aerial roots that drop from its towering branches to the ground beneath.
Wailoa River State Park
Other parks in the area include the Wailoa River Park and Recreation Area. Here you will find a 14-foot, bronze statue of King Kamehameha, who united the Hawaiian Islands into one royal kingdom in 1810.
Wailuku River State Park
Another of my favorite parks is Wailuku River Park, where you can see the Waiānuenue waterfall.
Waiānuenue means "rainbow water." The falls were named as such because, if you arrive around 10 a.m. on most sunny mornings, you will spot rainbows in the mist created by the waterfall.
Restaurants
In addition to beautiful outdoor spaces, Hilo is also home to great restaurants that feature fresh seafood, produce and delicious desserts.
Moon and Turtle
My favorite restaurant in Hilo is Moon and Turtle. Moon and Turtle is a neighborhood restaurant that has received island-wide attention for its ever changing, international dishes with a Pacific emphasis.
Smokey Sashimi
One example is the smokey sashimi appetizer that we ordered. The dish is made with local ahi tuna, Kiawe-smoked soy, Hawaiian chili pepper water and extra virgin olive oil. This, and the hamachi I had during my visit to ULU Ocean Grill in Kona, were the most delectable fish dishes I ate on this trip to the Big Island.
Smoked Tonnato Caesar Salad
Next, we shared a Caesar salad, amped up Moon and Turtle style.
The salad was made with hydroponic, baby romaine and frisée lettuce, anchovies, croutons, smoked ahi Caesar dressing, cured, local egg yolk and Parmesan cheese.
Portuguese Sausage Campanelle
We finished our meal with a pasta that was one of the most innovative and delicious that I have had.
The pasta was made with fresh, semolina flour, spicy, locally-made sausage, market vegetables, tomato sofrito, onsen tamago, toasted breadcrumbs and Parmesan. The genius component of the dish was a soft boiled egg, placed on top of the pasta. Once you cut it in half, you were to stir the par-cooked yolk into the pasta, making the sauce even more rich and creamy.
This pasta, as well as every dish I had at Moon and Turtle, was exceptional. I highly recommend this restaurant if you are in Hilo.
Suisan Fish Market
The second place I would recommend in Hilo is actually a market, not a restaurant.
Suisan Fish Market is located on the waterfront in Hilo. If you stand outside of the fish market early enough in the morning, you can see the fishermen arriving with their catch.
The fish market is known for their assortment of fresh poke, made with various marinades.
Should you feel overwhelmed by all the options, just ask for a sample to help narrow your choices.
Spicy Hamachi Poke
I opted for a small serving of the spicy, hamachi poke, which was served with ...
... a side of sushi rice. Incidentally, Suisan Fish Market is located next to Lili'uoklani Park and Gardens, so I suggest grabbing your food and enjoying a poke picnic in the park.
Hilo Bay Cafe
Not far from Suisun Fish Market, is Hilo Bay Cafe. The restaurant has an expansive, outdoor patio that is perfect for watching the sunset, though I arrived too late to enjoy it.
Liliko'i Tiradito
Hilo Bay Cafe is known for their seafood. No surprise given their proximity to the bay. I ordered the liliko'i tiradito.
The assorted sashimi was drenched in a liliko'i (passion fruit) vinaigrette and topped with cucumber, olive oil, pickled fresno peppers, crispy garlic, red onion and alaea salt, which is a Hawaiian salt that is a mix of sea salt and red volcanic clay.
Buttermilk Fried Chicken
The buttermilk fried chicken came highly recommended as a main course, so that was what I ordered.
The fried chicken thighs were served atop cast-iron, jalapeño cornbread with honey butter, sambal honey mustard and sweet heat pickles.
Two Ladies Kitchen
I ended my time in Hilo, on a sweet note, with a trip to the Two Ladies Kitchen, the most popular place to buy mochi in the city.
Without fail, you will find a line outside, even before the shop opens.
Everyone, from locals to the Food Network, has weighed in with the opinion that the mochi here is exceptionally fresh, as are the fillings.
Strawberry Mochi
The Two Ladies most popular flavor is the strawberry mochi. The giant, whole, juicy strawberries are wrapped in black bean paste and covered with the softest, freshest, made-to-order mochi.
Peach Mochi
I definitely suggest ordering the strawberry, but be sure to also inquire about any seasonal specials they may be offering. When I visited, the season's feature was peach mochi.
The peach was uncharacteristically sweet, with just the right amount of acid. If you don't like fruit, the Two Ladies Kitchen offers other flavors as well. I don't think you will go wrong, no matter what you order.
That concludes my time in Hilo. Next up, I will drive back to Kona, via the southern coast of the island, with a stop inland as well. There are still more beaches to come, spots to find great food, and a volcano visit as well.
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