The best way to experience the Big Island, in my opinion, is to rent a car and explore. The fastest way from one side of Hawai'i to the other is via the Saddle Road which runs east and west (more or less), but I don't recommend it. While it is efficient, you will miss all of the coastal beauty.
There are two Hawai'i highways that run along the coast. If taken in one shot, they will allow you to circle the island in about 6 hours. That said, you won't have any time to stop and enjoy any of the sites. What I recommend, is spreading out your road trip over two to three days, so you can enjoy both the northern and southern coasts of the Big Island, as well as some slightly inland sites.
Waimea
Mauna Lani, Auberge Resorts Collection
That is in fact what I did on my most recent trip to the Big Island. I began my journey in Kailua-Kona, which is on the west coast of Hawai'i. (For more on Kona, see my previous posts.) From Kona, I took Highway 19 north in order to ultimately reach Hilo, but I made several stops along the way. My first stop was at the Mauna Lani resort, located in Waimea.
Mauna Lani Lobby
The Mauna Lani is my favorite hotel on the Big Island. There is something so inviting and peaceful about the sunlit, open-air lobby which has always been the hotel's signature. The lobby, and the entire property, hold very fond memories for me, as the Mauna Lani was my Big Island home during many spring vacations with my father and family friends, while I was growing up.
The Mauna Lani that I grew up visiting as a child, while still gorgeous, looked like a whisper of the hotel you see today, however. That's because the resort underwent a massive, 18-month, $200 million renovation in 2018.
Ōpelu Canoe
The Mauna Lani's new lobby is even more dramatic and luxurious than before. It's centerpiece is this hand-carved, outrigger canoe which was made using traditional tools, over 100 years ago, in the fishing village of Miloli'i. The canoe weighs more than 400 pounds and can carry 2,000 pounds of fish. Ōpelu canoes, such as this, were used by Hawaiian's for fishing, sporting, and travel.
(Speaking of canoes, the reason I stopped at the Mauna Lani was to have lunch at their famous, beachfront restaurant, CanoeHouse, easily one of the best restaurants on the Big Island and one of my favorites. The problem is that I completely forgot that they don't open until dinner. So, I will have to save that restaurant review for a future visit and corresponding post.)
The resort is aptly named Mauna Lani, meaning "heavenly mountain," because it is situated between Hawai‘i’s five great mountains -- Hualālai, Mauna Loa, Mauna Kea, Kohala and Haleakalā. You can learn about the hotel's ties to Hawai'i history by viewing the museum-quality artifacts that are displayed in the lobby and/or by sitting down to have a conversation with Danny Akaka (a.k.a. "Uncle Danny").
Uncle Danny is a kama‘āina, or "child of this land." He functions as the resort's Kahu Hānai, or knowledge keeper. If you happen to visit the resort on a full moon, you can join him for Twilight at Kalāhuipua‘a, where you will settle in for an evening of music and storytelling.
Kalāhuipuʻa Fishpond
The Mauna Lani sits on 32 acres of land. On the property, you will find three pools, two golf courses, a spa, gym, gardens, coves, restaurants, bars, and this ancient, Kalāhuipuʻa fishpond that was once frequented by Hawaiian kings.
You will also find pristine coastline.
The property has beaches that are perfect for strolling, swimming, snorkeling, canoeing or sunbathing.
Whether you stay at the Mauna Lani, stop in for drinks during sunset, a meal, or come by just to see the property, you will enjoy yourself.
Merriman's
Paniolo High Country
Since the CanoeHouse at the Mauna Lani was not open for lunch, as I mentioned, I decided to continue my journey north and stop for lunch at Merriman's, another great restaurant in Waimea.
Merriman's has locations on four of the Hawaiian Islands. The Big Island location is in the heart of Paniolo High Country known for its ranches, cattle, pastures and as the location where the Hawaiian cowboys (paniolo) once roamed.
Fresh Catch of the Day Lunch Special
Given its location and history, Merriman's is dedicated to serving farm fresh food and local seafood.
I ordered the freshly caught wahoo, a fish that is a close relative of the king mackerel.
In Hawaii, wahoo is referred to as "ono" which means "good to eat," and it was, as were the crisp green beans and crunchy potatoes served alongside the fish.
Waipi'o
Waipi'o Valley Lookout
After a delicious lunch, I continued north to Waipi'o Valley. This valley was once the densely populated home of Hawaiian kings. Today, there are less than 200 residents living here among the taro fields.
Waipi'o means "curved water" in Hawaiian. The Waipi'o Valley is named after the winding Wailoa Stream that runs through it. The valley itself is surrounded by 2,500-foot cliffs on three sides. From the Waipi'o Valley Lookout Point, you can see some of these cliffs, as well as the beautiful black sand beach below that has been cut in two by the river.
Waipi'o Fruit Stands
Waipi'o Fruitshack
In addition to taro, the Waipi'o Valley produces great fruit. Whether on your way to or from the Waipi'o Valley Lookout, stop at a local fruit stand to taste some of the sweetest fruit I've had. One option is the Waipi'o Fruitshack.
Lilinoe Fruitstand
Another is the Lilinoe Fruitstand, where I stopped.
The stand has picnic benches where you can sit down and enjoy your fruit, or you can stroll on the paths behind the stand while taking in beautiful views.
Lilinoe Fruit Bowl
The owner of Lilinoe and I chatted about life on the island and the surrounding valley while she made me this custom bowl, with the freshest fruit she had. The bowl contained lychee, papaya, mango, pineapple, rambutan, and dragon fruit, all of which she cut and arranged while we talked. This was a refreshing snack and a great break before getting back on the road.
Laupahoehoe
Laupahoehoe View Point
My next stop was in Laupahoehoe. The area is famous for its beauty as well as a tsunami which hit its shores in 1946. The tsunami was caused by an earthquake in Alaska. Waves resulting from the earthquake hit the Laupahoehoe shore with the final, catastrophic wave measuring approximately 56 feet high, doing massive damage and killing 159 people, including 21 school children.
Laupahoehoe Point Beach Park
While the vista from the viewpoint is beautiful, I highly recommend driving down the hill to Laupahoehoe Point Beach Park where you can take a walk or picnic while enjoying an equally breathtaking view and proximity to the ocean.
I should warn you however, that this is not a place for swimming, because even without a tsunami, the waves here are fierce.
Stand back from the shore as they can creep up on you. This one definitely surprised me and the spray wet me quite a bit.
I stepped back several feet and continued watching the waves undeterred however, because the view from Laupahoehoe Point Beach Park is simply spectacular.
I highly recommend a visit, even just to stand at the cove and watch the calmer waves ebb and flow for a bit.
Akaka Falls
Akaka Falls
From Laupahoehoe, I got back on the road for one more scheduled stop at Akaka Falls, before reaching Hilo. Akaka Falls plunges 442 feet into a gorge and may just be Hawai'i's most famous waterfall.
A hike to the falls takes about an hour. I got pretty close but had to turn around because the park was closing. Even from a distance, the falls are worth seeing.
Pepeekeo
Pepeekeo
During my final leg to Hilo, I made two more unscheduled stops. The first was in Pepeekeo at this bridge I happened to cross.
On one side of the bridge I found this beautiful, gushing waterfall, and on the other ...
... this calming, stream.
Papakiho
My final stop was in Papakiho to take in this peek-a-boo view of the bay. Approximately ten minutes later, I reached Hilo where I spent a few days enjoying the Big Island's capital city. Next up, I'll share about my Hilo adventures, as well as my drive back to Kona along the southern coast of Hawai'i.
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