Greatest Hits Volume 9: Kokkari and Evvia Estiatorio (Greek, Bay Area)

This is the ninth installment in my "Greatest Hits" series celebrating restaurants that conspicuously stand out due to their extraordinary quality, consistency and service. Kokkari Estiatorio makes the list because, since its opening in 2000, it has been checking all these boxes and more. Consequently, it has established itself as the Bay Area's flagship, Greek, dining destination.

Kokkari

Kokkari is named after a small, fishing village on the island of Samos in the eastern Aegean Sea. The restaurant serves Hellenic cuisine inspired by Greek culinary traditions. In addition to consistent Michelin recognition, Kokkari has received James Beard Awards for "Best New Restaurant" and "Best Chef," as well as distinctions from other well reputed food reviewers.

Despite a large dining room that seats 200 guests, the restaurant is always packed. Located in San Francisco's Financial District, Kokkari draws a bevy of power lunchers midday. I find it shines most in the evening however, when the glow of the fireplace reveals its unique charm. Whether you are having a business lunch or it's date night matters not, as either way, you will definitely need a reservation.

Evvia

If you cannot secure one, you can try your luck at the bar, where the full menu is offered. Alternatively, you can visit Kokkari's sister restaurant, Evvia, located in Palo Alto. Both restaurants have a rustic, cozy, earthy vibe and share the same menu.

Evvia Wood Grill

At both restaurants, you will find a roaring, wood fire where ...

... they roast meats, ...

Kokkari Wood Rotisserie

and in front of which you will find baskets brimming with bread.

The menu leans into the beauty of wood fire cooking. Stand near the wood burning oven and you are sure to be mesmerized by all of the sizzling meat emitting mouth watering aromas.

Your meal commences with complimentary, fresh bread, after which you can partake in a variety of appetizers. With regard to both the appetizers and the entrees, you will notice that preparation and seasoning is uncomplicated. That is because the hallmark of Greek cuisine is its simplicity.

Greek cuisine focuses on quality ingredients, seasoned minimally with fresh herbs and olive oil. In lieu of complicated cooking techniques and heavy processing, Greek cuisine centers mostly on roasting, grilling and baking. As a result, like Japanese cuisine, the flavor of the raw ingredients (fish, poultry, meat, vegetables) is the star.

Marithes Tiganites

For example, my favorite appetizer, the marithes tiganites, or crispy smelts are seasoned with only salt and then fried. These small fish are served with skordalia, a garlic, potato and almond dip that is a staple in Greek cuisine.

The dip is fantastic, but the smelts are equally good on their own with a liberal squeeze of lemon.

Octapodaki tou Yiorgou

My penultimate favorite appetizer is the octapodaki tou yiorgou. The octopus in this dish is grilled until tender and served in sizable chunks. Seasoned minimally with fresh oregano, lemon and a drizzle of olive oil, the natural flavor of this mollusk really blossoms.

Kolokithokeftethes

Other appetizers I have enjoyed at Kokkari and Evvia include the kolokithokeftethes, or crispy zucchini cakes. They are made with thin, zucchini ribbons bound together with egg and a little bit of flour. The mixture is then spooned onto a skillet and pan fried until the fritters are golden brown. The kolokithokeftethes are served with cucumbers slices and a tangy yogurt seasoned with fresh mint.

Avgolemono

On colder days, I suggest a warm bowl of soup to start. The avgolemono is a great choice, as it is a traditional, lemony, Greek soup.

To balance the tartness of the lemon, the soup also incorporates egg, chicken and rice.

Arnisia Paidakia

The signature dishes at Kokkari and Evvia all center around lamb in all its incarnations. My most-loved of these is the arnisia paidakia, or grilled lamb chops. They are charred until they achieve a deep, brown crust and then finished with lemon, oregano and olive oil. Golden potato wedges, served alongside the chops, soak up the juices and flavors dripping from the meat.

Arnisia Plevrakia

If you're looking for a smaller portion, consider the arnisia plevrakia or lamb riblets. Both the riblets and the chops are mesquite grilled, giving them a rich, bold, smokey flavor.

Loukaniko

Though not on the menu, Kokkari sometimes offers a loukaniko, or lamb sausage, as a special. The sausage is seasoned with cumin and garlic and served in a savory, tomato sauce dotted with feta crumbles and then topped with fresh herbs and thinly sliced red onions.

Whether you opt for one of the aforementioned dishes, or choose the soutzoukakia (lamb meatballs) or the kokinisto me manestra, (braised shank), you cannot go wrong ordering lamb at Kokkari.

Simerina Psaria Lavraki

If you don't enjoy lamb, there are several seafood entrees that are equally compelling including squid, shrimp and fish dishes. My favorite is the simerina psaria or whole fish grilled over the wood burning fire.

Kokkari generally offers three varieties of fish. You can choose among the glosa (petrale sole), the tsipura (Mediterranean sea bream) or the lavraki (sea bass) pictured above. All of the fish is served with braised greens and seasoned with a combination of salt, garlic, olive oil, thyme and lemon.

Makaronia

For those who are vegetarian, the restaurant provides great options for you as well. The makaronia is delightful.

These ravioli are stuffed with ricotta, feta and kefalotyri (a salty, sharp, Greek cheese), as well as roasted pumpkin. They are then topped with arugula, mushrooms, onions and pine nuts and served in a savory broth.

Sokolatina

To finish on a sweet note, give the sokolatina a try. It is a dense, flourless, dark chocolate cake, dusted delicately with powdered sugar and served with sweetened whipped cream.

I hope you'll give Kokkari and Evvia a try if you haven't already. If you have, I hope this post will inspire a return visit. Until next time, I wish you "kali orexi," or "good appetite" in Greek. See you soon.