Honda-Ya is the eighth installment in my "Greatest Hits" series, featuring exceptional restaurants that have stood the test of time. I cannot count the number of visits I have made to this restaurant. Similarly, I have not counted the number of menu items they offer, but I can tell you that there are more than 200 and each one that I have tried is exceptionally delicious.
Honda-Ya
Honda-Ya is a Japanese izakaya that was founded in Tustin, California, over 30 years ago. The word "izakaya" is made up of three kanji (logographic Chinese characters used in Japanese writing) that loosely translates to “stay drink place” in English. Izakayas are a Japanese institution.
In Japan, the focus in these establishments is the alcohol. In fact, many isakayas in Japan employ the “nomihodai” or "all you can drink" concept and the food serves as a way to soak up all that alcohol. As such, isakayas are often where business people stop in for happy hour and a snack with colleagues after work.
Today, izakayas have expanded far beyond Japan and into the U.S., as well as other countries. Some izakayas that I have visited in the U.S. are very traditional, while others take the liberty of employing more of an American spin. Honda-Ya falls somewhere in the middle, though leaning towards traditional.
Upon entering the restaurant, you are greeted by warm, shouts of “Irasshaimase” from the staff, meaning "welcome." There are various seating options for guests. You can take off your shoes and dine on the floor, seated on tatami mats, at the yakitori bar where you can watch the chefs grill skewers of various meats, in the regular dining room or at the sushi bar.
While I have emphasized that alcohol is an important feature of izakayas in Japan, I don't mean to imply that these establishments skimp on the snacks. When I say bar and snacks, you might conjure up images of a local pub that serves beer alongside pretzels, chips, or some kind of trail mix.
An izakaya is a far cry from that. Food is a very important component at an izakaya and Honda-Ya is no exception. In fact, here at Honda-Ya, the alcohol is an after-thought, or for some, no thought at all. This is a place to first, come for the exceptional food, and if you are in the mood, have a drink to boot.
Raw Snacks
Oyster
Honda-ya has several specialities on their regular menu as well as a rotating weekly special. This fresh, seasonal oyster, served with scallions, radish and a ponzu dipping sauce, was one such weekly special.
Tako Waso
Other raw snacks include this dish which is one of my favorites. It is made with octopus that has been marinated in pickled wasabi. It has a crunchy texture with a mild wasabi flavor.
Hamachi with Jalapeño
The quality of all the sashimi at Honda-Ya, including this yellowtail, topped with jalapeño, cherry tomato and soy, is excellent.
Deep Fried Snacks
Tako Karaage
Honda-Ya also offers various deep-fried snack. Tako karaage is made by taking marinated pieces of octopus, battering them, and then briefly deep-frying them. At Honda-Ya, they are topped with a tangy sauce, shallots and herbs. This snack is identical to takoyaki which is the more common name.
Chicken Karaage
Honda-ya's chicken karaage is some of the best I have ever had. Each nugget of chicken is marinated using soy, sake, ginger, mirin and other spices. The pieces are then lightly coated in what seems to be flour, or maybe potato starch and deep fried. The breading is very light and crispy and the chicken is savory and slightly sweet. A squeeze of lemon completes this dish.
Kushiyaka
Kushiyaka is the Japanese term for skewered and grilled meats and vegetables, and this cooking method is where Honda-Ya really dazzles. All of the items are seasoned very simply with either salt or tare and are cooked over moderate heat, on a grill using binchōtan charcoal.
Meat or vegetable, a salty element, and fire. Sound simple? Like most Japanese cuisine, it is, but deceptively so. Take sushi, sashimi, tempura or miso soup for example, all of which are replete with umami, yet utilize less than five ingredients.
I think that is because simplicity demands only the finest ingredients and no room for error, as you cannot hide subpar elements or execution behind copious, varying flavors and rich sauces. Here, each ingredient is superb and minimal interference makes it identifiable and allows its natural characteristics to shine. Below are just some of the many vegetable and meat skewers offered at Honda-Ya and I would enthusiastically recommend them all.
Shishito Peppers
A little bit of char and a pinch of salt is such a great way to enjoy these mild peppers.
From Left to Right: Chicken Skin, Gizzard, Heart, Sirloin Beef, Pork Belly with Asparagus, Garlic Pork Belly, Wagyu Beef
Eggplant and Garlic, Butter Shrimp
Spicy Chicken Wings
From Top to Bottom: Smelt, Heart, Liver, Duck with Asparagus
From Left to Right: Pork Belly, Squid
From Top to Bottom: Bacon Wrapped Asparagus, Chicken with Green Onion, Miyazaki Beef
Other Specialties
Gindara
Other specialities at Honda-ya include this grilled, black cod. It might just be my favorite item on the menu.
No matter how many times I have ordered it, it is always cooked to perfection. Each flaky layer, marinated in miso, melts in your mouth.
Ebi Shumai
One of only a handful of steamed dishes at Honda-Ya, the shrimp dumplings are a great appetizer.
Mentaiko Yaki Onigiri
If you visit Honda-Ya, forgo the regular or sushi rice and order any of their grilled rice options. Whether you opt for the plum, spicy, seaweed, salmon or roe, you won't go wrong. This one is the spicy cod roe onigiri, my favorite.
Ankimo
Ankimo, or steamed monkfish liver is considered a winter delicacy in Japan. The consistency is not unlike a pate. Smooth, creamy, a bit salty and rich, it pairs well with a glass of sake.
Garlic Greens and Bacon
Garlic greens or garlic scapes are the shoots or stems that grow from the root of garlic. They have a mild flavor somewhere between a shallot and a chive. They balanced the richness of this pork belly so well.
Well, there you have it. Those are the 30 dishes I have sampled during my many visits to Honda-ya over the last several years. With more than 200 items on their menu, as I mentioned, I find it exciting that I am just scratching the surface. I hope you will give Honda-ya a try and let me know if you fall in love with the restaurant like I have.
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